In Brooklyn, Toasting Beaujolais and Chenin Blanc

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There are certain wines that sommeliers all love but that the public doesn’t necessarily embrace—or perhaps even know.

I’m thinking about wines such as Sherry and Beaujolais and Chenin Blanc. You’ll find them scattered throughout most New York wine lists, but they’re rarely—if ever—the star of the show. Except at Brooklyn’s newly opened Freek’s Mill restaurant and bar, where wine director and partner Alex Alan decided to showcase these wines seemingly to the exclusion of everything else. “My favorite wines are Chenin and Beaujolais,” said Mr. Alan, “The list gave me an excuse to go as far down the rabbit hole as I could.”

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