This low-key, candle-lit restaurant in Gowanus focuses on seasonal, vegetable-heavy small plates made with farm-fresh ingredients, like wood-roasted oysters and sunchoke agnolotti with lobster, as well as slightly more elevated dishes like rabbit in a jar and BBQ kohlrabi. Order lots and pair it all with French wine or something from the cocktail list, which features house riffs on classics like negronis and Old Fashioneds.